“In Italian cooking, there’s nowhere to hide.” I had just asked Temple Garner — chef/owner of a new Dublin restaurant called San Lorenzos – why Italian food? “The Italians have a generosity of spirit, a simplicity, they allow the ingredients to really shine.” I couldn’t agree more, having grown up in a kitchen with an Italian mother […]


I walked right past the sign for the grave of Hans Christian Anderson. It’s not that I wasn’t interested in paying my respects to the Danish master of fairytales, but my stomach started to rumble. After a morning exploring two of Copenhagen‘s emerging neighborhoods — Vesterbro and Norrebro — it was time for lunch. From […]

Einat Admony-2

“Why do you ask me that, because you think I’m fat?” Israeli Chef Einat Admony looked me straight in the eye as she countered my question with a question — and then broke into a smile. We sat in the corner booth of Balaboosta, her restaurant on Mulberry Street in Nolita, for an interview for […]


When you sit down to write a story, you never know where it’s going to wind up. Sitting at the desk in my apartment on Waterloo Road in Dublin, I wanted to write a story about the side of the Irish capital people seemed to be missing. Whenever I encountered fellow Americans (or any foreigners) […]


I was awake before school children singing songs came barreling down the lane. Closing the door quietly behind me, I entered a labyrinth of laneways without a map. I crossed bridges over still water, peered into cheese shops with the shutters still down. On this February morning, Venice was still very much asleep. The few […]


In Dublin, the sun was shining for the Irish National Holiday, St. Patrick’s Day. Here in New York, we listened to the Pogues, slowly drank a Guinness or two, and avoided green beer like the plague. All of the attention on the Irish pushed me into my archives for some sunny, Dublin photos to share […]

This weekend in the New York Times travel section, there was an article on Bratislava, Slovakia. The images and descriptions of this city — just an hour from Vienna without the crowds typical of Vienna — brought me right back to these streets where I spent a few blissful, wandering days. I had just come […]